Thursday, January 10, 2008

Cooking With Friends

I look forward to my Thursday dates with Jamie Oliver. Welcomed into his quaint cottage kitchen, the décore is warm and the dishes look delightful. I almost want to start a vegetable garden after seeing the beautiful produce he brings back to his kitchen to cook. I imagine his quirky personality and lively enthusiasm are infused into his cooking; I only wish I could try it. This guy LOVES olive oil, though. We laugh as we watch him drown each finished dish.

My first introduction to Nigella Lawson yesterday was less inspiring. She smiles a lot. She's sweet, and safe. Her dishes were more familiar. More domestic. More boring? It's not her fault I prefer a little entertainment with my cooking tips.

This is where Gordon Ramsay comes in! He's all "F***k this" and "This is s**t" that... which I might add is broadcast without bleeps on Aussie television as long as it's after 8:30pm! Though his show is not about recipes, but how to run a successful restaurant, I thoroughly enjoyed watching him criticize, and sometimes berate, the restaurant owner or chefs! Then he offers suggestions on how to turn the failing restaurants around.

Bill Granger is Australia's favorite chef. As a regular on some Sydney morning talk shows, and hosting some of his own series, his style of cooking is as easy to observe as his food is to eat. His recipes require little effort to follow, and his easy-going personality comes through in the cooking experience.

And such is my domestic life...

bills: Sydney, NSW, Australia

Bill Granger knows a thing or two about great recipes and the dining experience. We visited bills in Surry Hills this week, and I had the pleasure of experiencing some of my favorite recipes from his books first-hand (which I use to cook from all the time). Corn fritters made with capsicum (red bell peppers) and spring onions, topped with bacon, roasted tomato, and baby spinach. We also ordered the ricotta hotcakes served with banana and honeycomb butter. Ah, Australia's best brunch!

I'd like to take this opportunity to quickly share with you that bacon in Australia is different than bacon in the U.S. Anyone who knows me knows my affinity for all things pig. However, this Aussie bacon reminds me more of a thin-cut slice of ham. Not fatty, not crunchy-- I may have met a piece of pork I don't like!

Despite my preference for American bacon, the salt of the pork was so perfectly paired with the sweet of the corn and the mild bite of the spinach.

Refined, hip, casual-- the warm summer breeze carries quiet chatter of patrons on the sidewalk and city noise from the quaint neighborhood street blow in through the large open windows at the front. I'd met Bill briefly at a book signing when I first arrived in Sydney, and his likable, laid-back personality comes through in his food, in the atmosphere of his restaurant, and in his books. The spirit of Australia is in the dining experience here!

http://www.bills.com.au

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Cafe Sydney: Sydney, NSW, Australia

Located on the fifth floor of the Customs House, we were seated on the patio, with a clear view looking across to the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Fanning myself with an accordion-fold paper fan provided alongside the napkins and flatware for all patrons seated outside, I hardly noticed the jet lag since my arrival in Australia just two hours earlier.

Sydney Rock oysters and Pacific oysters served with a eschallot and caramelised cabernet vinegar and fresh lemon wedges were a delicious and delicate start to our meal as we decided on drinks.

The extensive cocktail menu offered many choices of drinks both familiar favorites as well as more regional specialities. I opted first for a honey vodka, lychee, peach drink. Then, on the waiter's recommendation, I tried the "Bohemian Mule," a citron vodka, Sake & Bohemian Absinthe concoction, infused with fresh ginger, coriander root and fresh lime juice, and a touch of ginger rum. It wasn't as strong as it sounds, and tasted of licorice, mint and citrus-- delicious!

My appetizer of seared sea scallops with beetroot, preserved lemon, pomegranate and celery leaves served with a smear of babaganoush, was light and spicy. Seafood was what I remembered most about my last visit to Sydney, and this plate did not disappoint.

Too bad I could not say the same for my pear, roquefort, radicchio, walnut and watercress salad, which was much too spicy. Large crushed peppercorn overpowered the leafy greens and the lighter fruit flavor that should have complimented the robust and aromatic soft cheese.

Ultimately the beautiful view, comfortable patio, polite and proper wait-staff, and leisurely yet sophisticated atmosphere made my flawed main course forgivable. We will return another time, with empty stomachs, to order the dessert platter, which looked like a meal all its own.

http://www.cafesydney.com/

Monday, November 26, 2007

Eastern Standard: Boston, MA

The best burger. Ever.

First agreeing to meet at Uburger (pronounced like "oo-ber'ger," they should have added the little omlauts: üburger) in Kenmore Square, my friend Tom suggested we try someplace a little less crowded by college kids where we could relax and enjoy a nice meal without feeling rushed.

So we crossed the street to Eastern Standard, where I had heard from my roommate that we could find the best burger in the city. Perhaps this was an understatement.

Tom, the burger connoisseur, determined this meat patty between two buns to be worthy of praise far exceeding its unassuming presence. His recommendations are handed out with discerning judgement. Remove all toppings, to truly taste the texture of the meat, the flavor and its preparation, and to not be distracted by condiments or other vegetables. So, off came the single leaf of Boston lettuce. The beautifully melted cheddar cheese was allowed to stay. Lifting the crusty brioche to his mouth, the first mouth full prompted a hearty nod. But, he said, final judgement is reserved for the final bite. The whole experience, all the way through, must be as good as that first juicy taste.

The best burger. Ever.

Equally impressive was my meal, Monday's special, Meat Loaf. I ate every last bite of the rich, flavorful favorite of moms across America. Served with a smooth beef gravy and creamy mashed potatoes, my heavenly meal took me back to days at home with my family growing up, and the fullness that usually only accompanies Thanksgiving feasts. But moister.

Add to all this, a warm & casual, yet elegant atmosphere and a friendly wait staff, we had a perfect dining experience for a damp autumn evening.

http://easternstandardboston.com/

Monday, November 12, 2007

Sibling Rivalry: Boston, MA

Two chefs face-off to see who can cook the best meal for "Monday Night Fight Night" at Sibling Rivalry, falling in line with popular cook-off shows currently flooding cable television, but with rather unremarkable results.

Round One/Appetizers, set us off to a great start.

Our friendly server suggested a crisp pino grigio from their generous wine and cocktail menus to accompany my choice of prix-fixe meal, to be prepared by co-owner Chef David Kinkead.

A platter that first appeared to be "German cold-cuts," as my date put it, turned out the be a delightfully unexpected combination of flavors and textures. Lamb and pistachio melded together to look like salami was cut into delicate triangles, surrounded by radicchio with thinly sliced onion, stone ground mustard and mini gherkins, a drizzle of sweet vinaigrette, and delicate pink grapefruit wedges. I never would have guessed how well the fruit would compliment the rich meat and robust mustard if I hadn't tasted it myself.

My date had ordered the competitor's prix-fixe menu, to be prepared by Chef Asia Mei, so we really could judge one against the other. His golden crispy won tons sat in a light peanut sauce good enough to make you grab for the basket of bread to soak up ever last bit.

After such a tasty start, our hopes for greatness were dashed as we took our first bites of Round Two/Entree. My razor clams were chewy and their dirty-salty flavor was only intensified by their preparation. The light lemon butter sauce was too similarly light and savory to the natural grilled flavor of the scallops that it should have complimented. I think there was spinach on the side.

Chef Asia's contribution was equally disappointing. The intentionally fatty cut of pork was tender, but sinewy, therefore difficult to cut, and even tougher to chew. The side of mashed potatoes were as anonymous as potatoes can be. The entire plate was covered with crushed peppercorns that tended to break mid-bite and sent me gasping and grasping for my water glass to wash down the sharp spice that overpower the entire plate.

Perhaps our disappointment was more obvious to the server than we intended, only because our enthusiasm for the first dishes had been so apparent. He promised that the desserts would renew our faith in the evenings menus. We were pleased with the delicately displayed chocolate, chocolate, and chocolate across both our plates for Round Three.

Chef David's offering was a white chocolate whipped delight, topped with a small white chocolate cookie, and dabs of robust mint and caramel sauces along the edge. A small, dark cocoa powder topped cake had a much bolder taste than its size first indicated.

The ramekin of molten chocolate cake was the fine work of Chef Asia. A funny little champagne flute contained a chocolate milk shake that proved difficult to sip since it was so thick, but worth the effort as the lightly sweetened cold chocolate slid across my tongue.

In the end, a draw, but a fun challenge. Perhaps its best to stick to the regular rival menu. Or to go somewhere without a gimmick.

http://www.siblingrivalryboston.com/

"Ratatouille"

The fictitious Chef Gusteau may have said "Anyone can cook," but it takes an inventive mind, patience, and serious motivation to host 10 of your closest friends for a French cuisine dinner party and movie night, inspired by the Disney film Ratatouille.

My friend Vichu has been known to host gourmet meals at his East Boston apartment, but newcomers are truly in for a treat as the courses keep on coming. His custom built kitchen includes a 4 burner gas stove, a French top, 4 ovens, and top of the line gadgets and cookware-- nothing but the finest for this man of self-taught culinary skill ("um... if self taught means being conscripted by my grandmother when I was 5").

Arriving around 2pm, I sat in the warm, bustling kitchen as many helpers/guests brought the final touches to the meal. Laugher and relaxation filled the air, like Thanksgiving come early.

A tray of diced mushrooms stuffed into delicate bite-size gougères, savory choux pastry, were passed around the room, a mouth-watering start to an amazing meal. The tender mushrooms, roasted to a juicy perfection, were a hit even with those who usually dislike the fungi for their earthy texture and flavor. Here they were soft and sweet between the crumbling cornbread, sliced perfectly into little tops and bottoms.

As all the ovens reached temperature, and timers were set, we gathered around the cozy kitchen table, most of us in chairs, but one guest sat on a fitness ball, and the host sat on his guitar amp. Eager forks dove into the bowl of crusty French bread pieces, then one by one were swirled lovingly in the melted gruyer cheese fondue. Savory, with a hint of tartness, every guest was speechless as cheese strings hung from their appreciative lips.

Plates were whisked away to make room for our next course: bowls of butternut squash cream soup with crème fraîche and freshly grated nutmeg. Sleigh-bells and the thought of snow filled my senses as I smoothly slurped the sweetness of the soup, gently spiced and oh-so creamy, from my over-sized spoon.

Roasted chicken with rosemary and pepper, olive oil roasted potatoes, and the title dish, ratatouille, were the culminating main course of the afternoon. As we ooh-ed and aah-ed, Vichu shared with us that he actually called Thomas Keller, the consulting chef for the movie, to get the ratatouille recipe cooked by "Little Chef" Remy! This traditional peasant dish is usually cooked as a stew, heavy on the sauce, but this updated incarnation inspired the same response for one of our guests as Anton Ego, the fictitious food critic in the film: familiar childhood delight grown-up for a more sophisticated palette. Thinly sliced tomatoes, yellow and green squash, simmered for a few hours in their own sweet juices, seasoned lightly with thyme and pepper, was a crowd pleaser at our table as much as it was in the movie!

Keller had requested that Vichu email back photos of the ratatouille dish he cooked, as thanks for sharing his recipe with him. Keller's response: "You cut your vegetables too thin..."

Alas, we loved it! So, as dinner settled, we all snuggled up with blankets and pillows in front of the television and watched Ratatouille, followed by miniature almond cakes served with a sliced strawberry and soft mild cheese crumbled on the side for dessert.

How sweet!

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Bar Tabac: Boerum Hill, NY

Hollandaise and Jazz-- for fans of Sunday brunch, need I say more?

Wile visiting friends in Brooklyn, they took me to this completely charming little bistro decorated in the style of old world Paris. Dark wooden floors, tin ceilings, and gently filtered light were as welcoming as the five-piece New Orleans style jazz band whose music called to us from the street as we approached.

We were warmly greeted, and seated promptly at a table near the bar, where the band played. With the romance of New York in the air, we settled in with spicy Bloody Marys and hot coffee, to take off the chill from our brisk walk from the subway.

I was advised to order "anything with Hollandaise." I'm usually not a fan, since my previous experiences with the sauce have been of the Denny's variety: lumpy, thick, gravy-like brownish substance that drowned the flavor of the entire plate. At Bar Tabac, not so! Their light, whipped, buttery sauce (which I ordered on the side) was heavenly! And I mean that literally-- if heaven were a flavor, it would be this Hollandaise sauce.

My eggs florentine had two perfectly poached eggs set lovingly on top of wilted spinach and thick cut toast. On the side: sparingly peppered roasted potatoes, cooked to a perfectly crisp golden brown, and a hearty serving of spicy greens with a light mustard vinaigrette. The Hollandaise sauce's savoriness complimented the bitter of the spinach, while sweetening the warm egg yolk which soaked lightly into the toast, for a lovely mixture of textures.

This was the kind of meal that inspires one to start a blog about their dining experience.

With its hip menu (reasonably priced) and lively atmosphere, I wished Bar Tabac was my living room.


http://www.bartabacny.com/index.html